Morocco

Marrakech & Essaouira

“There are no foreign lands – it is the traveller only who is foreign” 

Robert Louis Stevenson 

Marrakech

This is the second time I have been to Marrakech and although it is only a small city there is so much there to discover that I know I will be back again.  Although just over a 3 hour flight from the UK once you have landed you feel you are a million miles away.  The hustle and bustle of the Medina, the incredible heat, the smell of warm spices and wonderful food alongside beautiful architecture make it one of my favourite destinations.

If its your first time here then prepare yourself for an adventure and if you are staying in the Medina prepare to get very lost!  The locals think this is very much a part of the whole Marrakech experience and almost recommend it.  When I googled the word ‘Medina’ the top comments are “snake charmers” “narrow streets” “motorbikes” “donkey carts” and “crazy place” and with that in mind its worth saying that its not to everyones taste!  Personally I think the perfect combination is spending a few days discovering the city and then once it all gets too much heading out of the medina’s walls to discover what lies beyond the city.

Jemaa-el-Fnaa night market 

We have stayed in two fantastic riads both inside the Medina (which is where you need to be for the full experience) Maison MK – which as I write is now sadly up for sale – and Dar Akal Once inside they both have the same magical feeling of calm serenity in sharp contrast to the hectic world outside.  Service and food are excellent and they offer the obligatory hammam – a middle eastern steam bath – which is another ‘must’ while you are there.  Avoid eating anywhere near Jemaa El Fnaa (the main square) and instead ask your riad for good recommendations. Essentially though this is a place to embrace, explore and above all enjoy…….

My Marrakech Top Ten

• Get lost in the medina – although you’ll be given a map its almost impossible not to (your phones GPS might help – if you can get a signal)
• Buy something you don’t need in the souks – a Berber rug perhaps?
• Try a hammam – most of the riads and hotels will offer them but for the full experience try a local one in the medina.
• Visit El Badi Palace – this is in the process of being refurbished and will be stunning when (and if) its finished but I liked the rustic unfinished version.
• Stop for afternoon (mint) tea – perfect in the heat
• Visit the Maison de la Photographie (right by Dar Akal) – a gallery with great street photography and portraits.
• Walk among the beautiful bougainvillea at the Jardin Majorelle
• Try a local tagine with khoubz
• Spend an afternoon at the beautiful Ali Ben Youssef Medersa
• Stay in a riad – so that when it all gets too much you can escape to your roof terrace and relax….

Beyond Marrakech

We took a day trip to the Atlas Mountains while we were in Marrakech which is the perfect antidote to the cities busy markets and squares.  Stunning views and scenery everywhere you turn and as a bonus our lovely driver took us to a small local restaurant where under the shade of a tree we ate a delicious lemon and olive tagine with ‘khoubz’ – their traditional flat bread.

Our next stop was between Agadir and Essaoira.  We were staying at Paradis Plage a surf and yoga resort just outside Taghazout, a small surfing town on the coast.  I think this is quite a rare find in Morocco.  It has a warm and chilled out vibe and is very family friendly.  My son had surf lessons every morning and I took a few yoga classes.  There is a great beach bar and restaurant with good food and very laid back service! The wide sandy beach had camels and horses to ride and of course great waves to surf.  The only downside is that there is very little around the hotel but you can take a taxi into Taghazout for a change of scenery or even a day trip to Agadir or Essaoira – where we headed to next.

Essaoira

Essaoira is a port city and beach resort with a small medina that is now a UNESCO world heritage site.  It has a very laid back and breezy feel and although filled with tourists in the summer months has still managed to retain its heritage and character.  Wandering around the medina in the evenings is a million miles away from manic Marrakech with a great choice of restaurants.  We stayed at the Sofitel Essaouira Mogador hotel and I would really recommend it for some well needed sunshine during a spring/autumn break.  The hotel is beautifully designed with an impressive outdoor pool and spa.  We stayed in a pool villa and in terms of space and comfort for a family of four it was one of the best rooms we have stayed in.  There is a kids club, golf course four restaurants and enormous sun loungers for hanging out by the salt water pool.  The kids did quad biking, table tennis, surfing and swimming and its only a five minute drive into town.

Morocco is a diverse and dramatic country which offers so much for those who are willing to explore it.  It may appear a little rough around the edges but there is great beauty to be found and a wonderful feeling of escapism.